The Egnater Tweaker is a cool little amp. I also purchased a year ago a 15 watt version egnater tweaker at guitarcenter.com, though in head form. It is certainly loud on its own, and the volume on that is really good. I’ve blended mine using both the “AC” and “Brit” modes with another amp but prefer the Brit mode since I can get a good midrange out of it. I think it sounds awesome with my les paul.
The OP-1 has been out for a while now. What’s nice is they make a point of talking about the industrial grade components and construction, and sonically it is anything but toy-like. The OS is also supposed to be incredible, and the 4 track ‘tape’ mode is apparently unlike anything else out there in software or hardware. Still pricey but I believe it’s worth it. I myself, like the sound of the teenage engineering op-1, check it out at MusiciansFriend.com
If you love to spend hours and hours creating the perfect synth patch instead of making a song (unless you’re working on a “the patch IS the composition” type of patch – nothing wrong with that!) the OP-1 is not for you. If you’re more about laying down musical ideas quickly and not spending as much time on patch tweakage, then maybe it’s for you.
That IS a great deal for a G&L USA ASAT Special Maple Fingerboard Electric Guitar 3-Tone Sunburst Black Pickguard! This is musicians friend stupid deal of the day.
If you’re not familiar with G&L you might not know Leo Fender (the L) and George Fullerton (the G) were the brains of the operation and owners/founders of G&L. This style trem is where Leo took this design. He and George saw everything they were doing with G&L as improving on the original ideas he launched at Fender which he sold to CBS in the 60’s. But he started up G&L many years later and resumed focus on great guitars and making them better. Fender still makes some great stuff but G&L are the modern and more evolved alternative, similar to Carvin in that respect.
And this bridge is a killer 2 point non-locking system. It’s a blend of the old style but with better adjust-ability and range as a floating system. Smooth as butter too.
It’s a lot like what Carvin is offering as a 2-point Vintage style, but better. But I really like both Carvin’s vintage style trem and this one. The G&L wins though no question.
There are a lot of cool things he did with G&L, the ASAT bridges a couple great improvements on T-style bridge vintage and modern. MFD pickups, the Passive Treble and Bass cut controls on Legacy models like this one (a killer tonal range improvement). And much like Carvin G&L pickups are very underrated great pickups, but they spec SD’s in a lot of models as well.
My neighbor have gone to guitar center last saturday to buy his son his first acoustic. Before they went to the store, my neighbor asked me for recommendations on some acoustics I already own. I recommended to my neighbor to buy his son an Ibanez Acoustic because it has decent tone.I It’s decent enough to play songs with in the $200-$350 range. The guitar center saturday hours they open at 10:00 am and closes earlier the usual, at 8:00 pm.
I also advised my neighbor that you want something you feel comfortable playing. If you are new to the acoustic world, this might be awkward, so I suggested sitting down with candidate guitars and getting a feel for them. Everyone has different taste, and of course price is a constraint. My personal first acoustic was a Washburn D10SB. I liked this guitar because of the action on it. It was easy to play for someone who didn’t have strong fingers. Take those guitars mentioned into consideration they are nice. My suggestion sit down and feel what feels right.
I bought the Morley Volume Plus. I like it. I was looking specifically for a pedal with a Minimum Volume control (I could afford). I actually got the Boss FV500 and while it had a minimum volume and tension control for the treadle (cool feature), the minimum volume was not adjustable within a usable range – all the way down it was only about 85% volume – I’m using it for “lead/rhythm” so I need it to be adjustable from like 65% to 99% (so there’d be some adjustability). When I bought the Morley volume plus it did the same thing – didn’t go quiet enough with the knob all the way down. But here’s the kicker – the Morley is adjustable – it works on an LED that shines on a receptor inside – all you have to do is adjust the LED closer or further from the sensor to adjust the pedal – you can adjust both the maximum volume (to a point) and how low the minimum setting of the min vol goes (pretty far down).
So far, it seems like a “good workingman’s pedal” and at the price was a good deal considering the adjustability and the features. If it lasts as long as the old one I have, it will be money well spent.
A friend of mine have an E-18. These guitars were, in fact, made in the USA right there in Nazareth. His E-18 actually plays better, sounds better, and stays in tune better than most Fender Strats and Les Pauls I’ve played that were made around the same time. With the built in coil taps and phase switch it’s far more versatile than competing instruments of that vintage. How long did it take Gibson to catch up and offer these features on standard guitars? Yeah — the martin electric guitar were ahead of their time. One of the most well made electric guitars of it’s time and best neck by far. They only failed due to marketing and brand positioning. If they’d thrown a whammy bar on them, and got some long haired with make-up to play them, things might have went down differently. Good for anything from metal to smooth jazz.
I just purchased the Pioneer DDJ-T1 controller without the power supply. I have tested this pioneer dj controller last weekend, it works with and without power supply. The only difference without power supply is, some LED’s are not active.
In my setup with Traktor 2.10.013 the controller worked like a charm, just selected that mapping in the Traktor settings. Actually the controller is absolutely great, but old, new technologies let you digital DJ easier, I use the Gemini G4V and found it better than the T1.
The DDJ-T1 is/was shipped with a special Traktor Pioneer Edition. It has only a limited
fuctionality and is more a former special Version of the Traktor LE. There was a limited time period where you had the option to upgrade this license for free to the traktor pro license.
The Pioneer Edition is not a time limited Demo or something like this but everyone who used it would strongly recommend to buy an upgrade to the pro. Several later introduced features like remix decks or the mentioned flux mode are just not implemented. Its HID but Pioneer still got a tsi file with all supported features like using the remix decks.
This is a multi-pattern tube condensor mic.
The switch that has a 0db -10db markings is just a attenuator.
Set to 0 db means full output and -10db means that the output is reduced by 10 db. The switch marked – /- is a low frequency roll off switch. Set to – means that the full frequency of MF’s recording mic is being sent to the preamp and set to /- means that lower (bass) frequencies are being reduced at the output.
The three position switch controls the polar pattern of the mic.
The 0 position is the omni mode and the mic hears sounds equally from all sides.
The 8 mode (figure 8) picks up sound equally from both from and back, but rejects sounds at both sides of the mic.
The last one is the cardiod mode and the mic picks up sound best from the front and rejects sounds from both sides and the back.
I would suggest googling “microphone polar patterns” to learn more about the uses for each pattern. If the mic came with a manual, that should also help.
Buy Rod Gervais’ book on home studio construction. Pretty much everything you need to know is in there in plain terms. The bible of the amateur studio building community.
You should buy soundproof foam from Guitar Center. Foam only damps high frequency reflections. Making the room sound deader but not reducing noise on the outside at all. Most of what gets out (and is most difficult to stop even with construction), and annoys neighbors, is low frequency noise. Particularly bass drums.
Real acoustic foam is fairly expensive because it is flame retardant. Hanging mattress pads on the walls is an invitation to another Great White fire trap. Better is rigid fiberglass insulation. Which can burn but is much harder to ignite. Those shapes you see on the walls of movie theaters are made of this.
Isolation of noise takes exactly that. Physical isolation or decoupling of the inner surfaces of the room from the structure or outer surfaces of the room. Lots of ways to do this with varying degrees of effectiveness. From resilient channel behind the drywall (you have to remove the existing drywall to do this) which is what home theaters and hotels do, to a full on independent floating structure inside the existing space. Which is what real recording studios do. The first gets maybe 10 dB of isolation and much less in the bass. A correctly done full on studio can get up to 50-60 dB of isolation. A band or decently loud drumming can be between 95 and 115 dB.
Now think about what you really want to do. Do some research and costing out alternatives.
It is one of my favorite place to shop. I love their prices plus , I’ve bought a guitar and tons of other stuff through them. And I know friends who have bought gear from them, all in great condition.
Only problem I’ve had is Backordered stuff. But, with the amount of business they do it doesn’t surprise me. You can also sign-up for musicians friend catalog to start taking advantage of all the fantastic benefits.