I just purchased the Pioneer DDJ-T1 controller without the power supply. I have tested this pioneer dj controller last weekend, it works with and without power supply. The only difference without power supply is, some LED’s are not active.
In my setup with Traktor 2.10.013 the controller worked like a charm, just selected that mapping in the Traktor settings. Actually the controller is absolutely great, but old, new technologies let you digital DJ easier, I use the Gemini G4V and found it better than the T1.
The DDJ-T1 is/was shipped with a special Traktor Pioneer Edition. It has only a limited
fuctionality and is more a former special Version of the Traktor LE. There was a limited time period where you had the option to upgrade this license for free to the traktor pro license.
The Pioneer Edition is not a time limited Demo or something like this but everyone who used it would strongly recommend to buy an upgrade to the pro. Several later introduced features like remix decks or the mentioned flux mode are just not implemented. Its HID but Pioneer still got a tsi file with all supported features like using the remix decks.
This is a multi-pattern tube condensor mic.
The switch that has a 0db -10db markings is just a attenuator.
Set to 0 db means full output and -10db means that the output is reduced by 10 db. The switch marked – /- is a low frequency roll off switch. Set to – means that the full frequency of MF’s recording mic is being sent to the preamp and set to /- means that lower (bass) frequencies are being reduced at the output.
The three position switch controls the polar pattern of the mic.
The 0 position is the omni mode and the mic hears sounds equally from all sides.
The 8 mode (figure 8) picks up sound equally from both from and back, but rejects sounds at both sides of the mic.
The last one is the cardiod mode and the mic picks up sound best from the front and rejects sounds from both sides and the back.
I would suggest googling “microphone polar patterns” to learn more about the uses for each pattern. If the mic came with a manual, that should also help.
Buy Rod Gervais’ book on home studio construction. Pretty much everything you need to know is in there in plain terms. The bible of the amateur studio building community.
You should buy soundproof foam from Guitar Center. Foam only damps high frequency reflections. Making the room sound deader but not reducing noise on the outside at all. Most of what gets out (and is most difficult to stop even with construction), and annoys neighbors, is low frequency noise. Particularly bass drums.
Real acoustic foam is fairly expensive because it is flame retardant. Hanging mattress pads on the walls is an invitation to another Great White fire trap. Better is rigid fiberglass insulation. Which can burn but is much harder to ignite. Those shapes you see on the walls of movie theaters are made of this.
Isolation of noise takes exactly that. Physical isolation or decoupling of the inner surfaces of the room from the structure or outer surfaces of the room. Lots of ways to do this with varying degrees of effectiveness. From resilient channel behind the drywall (you have to remove the existing drywall to do this) which is what home theaters and hotels do, to a full on independent floating structure inside the existing space. Which is what real recording studios do. The first gets maybe 10 dB of isolation and much less in the bass. A correctly done full on studio can get up to 50-60 dB of isolation. A band or decently loud drumming can be between 95 and 115 dB.
Now think about what you really want to do. Do some research and costing out alternatives.